Directions

1. 1. Put the pieces of duck or chicken in a 12-inch skillet or flameproof casserole, preferably nonstick, and turn the heat to medium-high.
2. 2. Brown carefully on both sides, rotating and turning as necessary and sprinkling with salt and pepper as they cook.
3. 3. Take your time to do this thoroughly, allowing up to 15 or 20 minutes total, remove the pieces as they are browned.
4. 4. Meanwhile, soak the dried shrimp in water to cover and soak the dried chiles, if you're using them, in warm water to cover.
5. 5. Combine the onion, garlic, ginger, and spices in a food processor. When the shrimp are tender, add them to the processor, reserving the liquid.
6. 6. When the chiles are soft, remove and discard the stems, add the flesh (and seeds, if you want extra heat to the processor.
7. 7. If you're using nam pla or soy sauce, add it to the processor.
8. 8. Pulse the machine on and off, using enough of the reserved liquids or some of the coconut milk to loosen the mixture so the machine can do its work, until a thick paste is formed.
9. 9. Remove all but a couple tablespoons of the fat from the skillet (you will have to remove more if you use duck than if you use chicken), add the curry paste, and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture becomes fragrant, a minute or two.
10. 10. Add the remaining coconut milk and bring to a boil, nestle the pieces of the bird in there, adding any juices that have accumulated around them.
11. 11. Adjust the heat so that the mixture simmers energetically but not violently and cook, uncovered, until the duck or chicken is tender, 20 to 40 minutes. Meanwhile, juice 1 lime and quarter the other.
12. 12. Stir the lime juice into the curry.
13. 13. Serve (on white rice is best), garnished with the cilantro and accompanied by the quartered lime.